Tahiti conjures visions of emerald peaks rising from encircling sapphire lagoons. That's an apt description for islands such as Moorea and Bora Bora, but it's not what you'll find in the atolls that lie to the east. These are the atolls, vast rings of coral reef and small fringing islands known as motus. The sheltered waters within these rings are interspersed with shallow coral gardens and sand-bottom inner lagoons that provide relaxing diving and snorkeling experiences.
But it is the outer edges of the ring that draw divers from around the world. Each day, tidal ebbs and flows funnel water in and out of the atoll through clefts in the atoll ring. These are the passes that have become famous in diving circles.
The atoll best known for exciting pass diving is Rangiroa, while less-visited Fakarava and Tikehau Atolls offer similar rewards. All three can be reached by island-hopping flights from the main island of Tahiti, and each provides underwater adventures found nowhere else on earth.
RANGIROA
Rangiroa is an ellipse of sandbars and small motus stretching nearly 50 miles east to west to enclose more than 500 square miles of inner lagoon. Only two of the atoll's 400-plus islands are inhabited, and they face the deep water channels of Tiputa Pass and Avatoru Pass. Located less than five miles apart, these sites are just a quick boat ride away from dive resorts on the primary island
Tiputa Pass is Tahiti's most famous dive site, known for the prolific and varied marine life that congregates in its moving waters. Dives conducted on both incoming and outgoing flows provide opportunities to be swept along by brisk currents, linger in the sheltering eddies of ancillary canyons or use a reef hook to hold position center stage and watch the action unfold. Regulars include large schools of gray reef sharks, dolphin pods, rays, turtles, giant Napoleon wrasse and large schools of jacks and surgeonfish. Tiputa is also known for sightings of numerous additional shark species, including silky sharks, silvertips, whitetips, blacktips, lemons, great hammerheads, and tiger sharks.
Though less famous than Tiputa, Avatoru Pass offers equally rewarding dives. It's also located just minutes from dive center docks, and it delivers distinctly different underwater experiences in two parallel channels. The wider waterway features lighter currents, prolific coral growth and moderate depths, and is also suitable for snorkelers. Other routes offer fast-paced drifts and shark encounters at greater depths. Avatoru is known for silvertip sharks, manta ray sightings and large schools of pompano and bigeye jacks.
In addition to the passes, Rangiroa diving can include excursions to the western edge of the atoll to visit the famous Blue Lagoon. This shallow natural pool is a nursery for blacktip reef sharks and lemon sharks. Another favorite shallow site is the Aquarium, which lives up to its name with a dazzling variety of tropical fish.
FAKARAVA
100 miles to the east of Rangiroa, Fakarava is French Polynesia's second-largest atoll. This UNESCO biosphere reserve supports some of the South Pacific's most prolific and pristine coral reefs. In recent years, Fakarava has gained international notoriety for a dive known as the Wall of Sharks. This encounter takes place in the channel of Tumakohua Pass, which cuts through the southern edge of the atoll. Moderate currents on incoming tides allow divers to set a reef hook or shelter in recesses in the seabed as they watch groups of 200 to 300 gray reef sharks muster fin-to-fin between the walls of the pass. Ascents to shallow water on the flanks of the pass showcase vibrant coral formations covered in clouds of tropical fish.
Fakarava also offers adrenaline-pumping dives in Garuae Pass. Located at the northern end of the Atoll, this mile-wide channel is often swept by strong currents that make for exciting drifts on incoming tides. Clear ocean waters reveal the full expanse of an underwater landscape filled with clouds of scad, perch, barracuda and jacks. Divers soar over coral canyons in the company of gray and white tip sharks, eagle rays, turtles and large Napoleon wrasses.
A favorite shallow dive and snorkel excursion on Fakarava is Teahatea lagoon. This white-sand basin is home to curious blacktip reef sharks. Second dives at Garuea Pass may visit an aquarium-like site known as Ali Baba, where the waters are filled with clouds of colorful tropical fish.
TIKEHAU
With just a handful of guest houses and a single upscale resort, Tikehau is an uncrowded slice of paradise known for it's pink sand beaches and dazzling inner lagoon. The atoll is located eight miles to the west of Rangiroa and is reached by direct flights from the international airport on the big island of Tahiti. Like its two larger sister atolls, Tikehau offers memorable dives in a tidal channel that offers more than sharks. Tuheiava Pass is relatively shallow, allowing for generous bottom times and conditions that are favorable for all divers. In addition to the “usual suspects” like gray reef and blacktip sharks, pass dives may yield leopard rays, hammerhead and tiger shark sightings and schools of tuna.
A former pearl farm within the lagoon is now the site of a manta ray cleaning station. Other interior lagoon sites feature crevices and caverns that hold a menagerie of marine life, as the atoll's diversity and density of marine life are considered to be the greatest in the region. Dives on the outer reef add sightings of sleek, fast-moving billfish and other apex pelagic predators.
DIVING THE ATOLLS
Maitai Rangiroa
The Maitai Rangiroa Resort is located on the lagoon shore of Rangiroa's primary island, midway between Avatoru and Tiputa passes.
This mid-range property features 36 well-appointed garden and waterfront bungalows that blend traditional materials with modern comforts, including air conditioning and WiFi connectivity. Learn more.
Hotel Kia Ora
The Hotel Kia Ora Resort & Spa is Rangiroa's premier four-star property, with upscale beachfront and overwater bungalows and a range of amenities including a spa, fitness center, pool and wine cellar.
Partnering Dive Operators visit all of the atolls top dive and snorkeling sites. Learn more.
Havaiki Lodge
Havaiki Lodge is an intimate property comprised of 10 elevated Beach Bungalows and 5 Garden Bungalows that can accommodate up to four guests. Amenities include two restaurants and an overwater massage station.
The property provides bicycles, kayaks and paddle boards to explore the island and the lagoon. Learn more.
Le Tikehau by Pearl Resort
Set on a private motu a short boat ride away from the atoll's only village, Le Tikehau is a five-star resort offering overwater suites and bungalows tucked into a coconut grove facing a pink sand beach. Traditional pandanus-roofed Polynesian accommodations are finished with modern upscale interiors.
Partnering Dive Operators offer small group and private diving and snorkeling excursions to all of the atoll's top sites. Learn more.