By Walt Stearns, Editor, Scuba Diver North America
For many of us who grew up in South Florida, Cuba was seen as the forbidden fruit. We could only imagine what might await on the more than 3,500 miles of coastline of largest island in the Caribbean. In the late 1990’s, I began hearing reports and rumors from a few intrepid divers who actually made the journey inside the island nation that was for the most part deemed off-limits to US citizens. But as parts of the sugarcane curtain came down, a growing number of divers from the States deemed Cuba ripe for exploration. And the most desirable destination was undoubtedly the celebrated Jardines de la Reina— the Gardens of the Queen —which lies some 60 miles off Cuba’s southern coast.
During my decades working as a magazine photojournalist, I have had a great opportunity to see and photograph a wide range of underwater landscapes across a wide swath of the Bahamas and Caribbean. But Cuba remained that destination that continued to elude me. My chance to visit finally came in the spring of 2019, and my destination was the Gardens of the Queens.
The Gardens of the Queen is made up of some 600 cays and small islands paralleling Cuba’s southern-central coast. This 93-mile-long string of islands known as Jardines de la Reina was also named by Christopher Columbus in honor the Queen of Spain, Isabella I of Castile. Fidel Castro made the archipelago his personal fishing grounds, which had the benefit of keeping commercial fishing interests at bay. In 1996, the Jardines was designated as a no-take zone and a marine protected area with limited visitation. The reserve encompasses 840 square miles (2,170 sq. km) and takes in mangrove islands and an underwater landscape dominated with coral formations with steep ledges, canyons and towering pinnacles.
From the day it was first declared a marine park, the Gardens have received strict and well-regulated protection by the Cuban Sciences and Environment Ministry. Today, the park is opened to a limited number (6 currently) of liveaboard dive yachts keeping the total number divers visiting to around 3,000 annually. As a result, the entire area is regarded as one the healthiest coral reef ecosystems in the Caribbean.
Coral Towers
With the Cayman Islands being relatively close neighbors to the south, you might think that the underwater topography of the Jardines might be similar. But instead of steep, vertical walls, the bottom terrain is a gentle slope to depths of 120-to-150 feet that is punctuated by massive coral pinnacles rising abruptly to depths 55 feet of the surface. Some, like the towers known as Caballones and Los Indios are singular formations, while others like Finca De Pepe have several towers standing in progression like a group of giant dominos with deep canyons in between. Making these formations even more intriguing is the number and variety of large marine life that are present, from silky sharks that often gather just under the boat to reef sharks, grouper, schooling horse-eyed jacks and tarpon.
It was exciting to see both silky and reef sharks on the same dive, but what most caught my attention at many sites was the resident populations of Nassau and black grouper. While Nassau’s can still be readily seen in places like the Cayman Sister Islands, the Bahamas and the Turks & Caicos, black groupers have pretty much disappeared throughout the rest of Caribbean. But here in the Gardens of the Queen it was a different story. No matter what reef site we visited, there was an abundance of both species. Adding to the pleasure of seeing a robust grouper population was the lack fear they has for divers. Several even stayed with us from start to finish of nearly every dive.
In addition to the Garden’s robust population of Nassau and black groupers, divers also have the opportunity to meet an even rarer and the largest member of the grouper family – the goliath grouper. These big fish can grow to weights in excess of 400 pounds. During my one-week stay in the Garden’s I actually met three goliaths, one in the 350-pound range that wasn’t feeling particularly social and two 80-pound puppy’s that made a habit of being completely underfoot. Name another place in the Caribbean that can lay claim to that!
Mangroves With More
The second attraction to the Gardens of the Queen is the archipelago’s collection of small islands and mangrove forests. This million-acre wetlands is considered one of the Caribbean’s last pristine marine environments, and more than 60 percent is comprised of sea grass beds which serve as vital nursery area for young fish and lobster.
This marine park also acts as a critical refuge for more than 70 species of migratory birds moving along the route through Florida and the Gulf of Mexico to South America. Above and below the water’s surface, forests of red mangroves provide protection from open ocean wave energy along with a labyrinth of narrow channels and creeks worthy of exploration for snorkelers. And there are crocodiles.
Cuba is home to a large population of American saltwater crocodiles, a species that exclusively lives in coastal saltwater marsh environments in parts of the Bahamas, South Florida and Mexico. Fortunately, although they are close relatives of the ones you see on Discovery Channel, this species is surprisingly shy and reclusive around humans. But here in the Gardens of the Queen, snorkelers get the rarest of opportunities to meet one face-to-face, plus the chance to get a few great portrait shots to prove you did it.
Diving the Jardines De La Reina with Avalon
Divers can visit the Garden of the Queens with Avalon Outdoors, which operates a number of liveaboards in the reserve. The Tortuga is a 110-foot double deck houseboat that stays almost permanently inside the park and is set up for hosting 20 guests between 8 cabins. The Avalon I is a dive yacht first introduced 2010, with 8 cabins accommodating a total of 18 guests. In 2014, the Jardines Avalon II was added. It is a slightly larger 120-foot vessel with 10 cabins for 20 guests. The last of this foursome, the Avalon III is the newest entry coming online in February 2019, measuring 160 feet set up with 15 staterooms for up to 30 guests, including 4 suites with balconies.
For more information on diving the Gardens of the Queen, get in touch with a Caradonna agent at 800-329-9989 or send a note to sales@caradonna.com.