A report on one of the Philippine’s most popular diving destinations | By Walt Stearns
“Exceptional diving, great service and more bang for your buck.” That's the short answer I give when asked why the Philippines is one of my favorite destinations.
On terms of value, the Philippines may require a bit more up-front cost for airfare than is the case for destinations closer to North America, but once there, accommodations and services will cost less, making the overall price of the vacation similar. What isn't comparable is the quality of the diving experience, which the Philippines will win, hands down.
Biologists refer to this corner of the world as the “Coral Triangle.” This region, defined by Indonesia, Malaysia and the Philippines, is a biological treasure trove, home to more than 600 species of coral and over 3,000 varieties of fish. And if you are into interesting marine invertebrates, the reefs of the Indo-Pacific are considered the most biodiverse on the planet, with species counts numbering into the tens of thousands.
Where is Dumaguete
Putting the Philippines into geographic perspective can be a daunting task for first-time visitors. With 11 major islands and more than 7,500 smaller ones stretching 1,100 miles north to south, there's a lot of waterfront to cover. Dive resorts have sprung up on a number of islands, running the gamut from simple dorm-style hostels to lavish beachfront properties. From these literally hundreds of options, I often choose the Dumaguete region on the island of Negros. It's easy to get to, with direct flights of just over an hour from Manila. It's also quite civilized. Dumaguete's nickname is “The City of Gentle People,” and it is home to a number of universities. Just a short drive down the coast from downtown are a number of first-class resorts that overlook the rich waters of Bohol Sea and the Tañon Strait. This location gives divers convenient access to a wide range of underwater environments and experiences.
What to expect
The Dumaguete coastline offers muck diving in its truest form. The bottom fringing most of the immediate shore is largely devoid of colorful, pristine coral reefs. At prime sites you will hover over grey to chocolate-colored silt or sand bottoms that at first appear lifeless. But closer examination reveals that what at first seems like an aquatic desert is actually home to an ongoing parade of the strange, the bizarre, and the beautiful. Divers come here in search of nudibranchs, frogfish, pipefish, flamboyant cuttlefish, wonderpuss and my nightmarish favorite, the Bobbit worm. Around sunset, mandarin fish begin their intricate courtship rituals, and night dives bring out a new cast of characters. Should somebody runs across the Holy Grail of macro critter photography, the Rhinopia scorpionfish, you would think they had discovered buried treasure.
The secrets to a successful muck diving experience at Dumaguete come down to control and patience. The environment is not at all forgiving of sloppy dive skills. Hand sculling and large scissor kicks will stir up the bottom and leave a huge dirty wake everywhere you go. In addition to disturbing the habitat, this will earn the displeasure of your fellow divers. It's important to maintain neutral buoyancy and limit fin movement through the use of techniques such as modified frog and flutter kicks. Equally important is streamlining your gear and making sure consoles and alternate air sources aren't dragging in the dirt. Combine good body control skills with a measured, observant pace and you will be rewarded with a wealth of finds.
Beyond the Muck
While muck diving is Dumaguete’s largest attraction, it is not the only one. Several resorts also offer day trips to neighboring Apo Island, which provides a very different underwater environment. A crossing to Apo island usually begins in the morning and takes about an hour aboard a large dive banka—a traditional-style boat fitted with outriggers for stability and awnings for weather protection.
When a powerful typhoon struck Apo island in 2012, the windward side suffered severe damage to the coral reefs. Fortunately, the leeward side where most of the diving is done escaped the storm's fury. The underwater visibility around the island typically ranges between 60 to 90 feet, which is a significant change from the muck diving sites at Dumaguete, which average 20 to 30 feet. Apo offers the type of hard coral reef systems typical of the Philippines, with steep sloping profiles punctuated by ledges and mini walls dropping to depths of 70 to 90 feet. Marine life includes large schools of fish, healthy hard corals, banded sea krates, hawksbill and green turtles.
Following the second morning dive, operators usually pull up to the beach, where the staff prepares a buffet lunch. A third dive usually follows, and the return trip gets everyone back at the resort by mid afternoon, leaving plenty of time to prepare for a late afternoon or night shore dive.
Swimming with the world’s largest fish
Though most of the focus at Dumaguete is seeing the little stuff, an additional treat is a trip to snorkel with the biggest fish in the ocean, the whale shark. This adventure begins with an early departure from the resort to catch a morning ferry to the neighboring island of Cebu. After crossing the Tañon Strait channel, passengers are transferred to a Jeepne, the Philippine's unique style of bus, for another 40-minute drive up the coast to the town of Oslob.
Most of my experiences with diving with whale sharks at sites around the world were seasonally dependent, and took place at a considerable distance from shore. That is not the case in Oslob, where encounters can take place as close as 100 yards from the beach. Supposedly, the back-story on this unique encounter began with a conflict between the sharks and the local Oslob fishermen. For many years, the fishermen would set out in their small outrigger canoes, deploying fine mesh nets to capture shrimp. When the whale sharks showed up to feed on the same shrimp, the nets were often fouled or destroyed. At some point, the fishermen came up with a clever win-win solution. Rather than attempt to fend off the feeding animals, they began to feed them a small portion of their catch, starting early in the day. Once the whale sharks had fed, they moved off, leaving the fishermen free to deploy their nets in the afternoon and night.
Some might criticize this strategy as encouraging unnatural behavior, but it should be viewed in the context of historical and regional actions. Until recently, whale sharks were slaughtered in the Philippines for fins and meat. It is a practice that is still persistent in many unprotected corners of the Indo-Pacific. By contrast, the whale sharks of Cebu have become a significant attraction, bringing tourism dollars to the coastal community and prompting the creation of a protected status for the animals. Before getting on the water, swimmers are provided with a briefing that includes all the dos and don’ts of snorkeling (scuba is not allowed) with the sharks. Touching is forbidden, and in fact you are requested not to come any closer than three meters. The use of camera strobes or video lights on is not permitted, but between the bright late morning sun, shallow depth and white sand bottom, you really don’t need them.
Once on the water, it's best to take a few moments to observe the actions of the fisherman, who are the only individuals allowed to feed the sharks. Even when there are more than a dozen outrigger canoes on the water, the sharks will only follow those operated by the fishermen doing the feeding. Knowing this, you can then position yourself in the line of an approaching fisherman, rather than attempt to chase the sharks. Following the snorkeling session, the staff puts together a hearty lunch beachside, with the return trip to Dumaguete around 2 p.m.
Local Conditions and Logistics
Dumaguete seems to have two seasons—dry and wet. June through September is the Philippines monsoon season, and as you might expect, conditions can get pretty warm and humid, with daytime temperatures well into the 90s. The better time to visit is the dry season, from November through May, when average air temperatures run from the high 70s to mid-90s, with December to February dipping into the low 80s. Yes, it's the tropics, but I'd still recommend divers wear a full wetsuit, as in-water times can be long and water temperatures in the Dumaguete area average 76-78 degrees from January to March, then warm to around 79-80 through the rest of the year.
Most resorts in Dumaguete have no dock or pier, and boarding is done from the beach. This will sometimes require wading out to chest deep water before climbing up the boat's boarding ladder. Tanks, BCDs and regulators are assembled on shore, and the staff then loads everything on the boats. In most cases, boats carry no more than 8 divers, plus a dive guide, driver and deck hand. While the skiffs have tank holders, camera systems are placed where space is available, so it's important to pay attention to the handling and placement of camera setups when boarding and riding out to the dive site.
Daily dive schedules can vary according to group size and itinerary. In some cases, this may dictate a series of single dives set around 8 to 9 a.m., 11 a.m., 2 p.m., and 4 p.m., or a morning start for a two-tank itinerary. This flexibility is possible because the majority of the diving in the Dumaguete area is no more than a 30-minute boat ride from a resort’s beachhead, and some are less than five minutes away.
The Best Resorts
The Atlantis dive group operates two resorts and one live-aboard in the Philippines. Their Dumaguete property combines convent access to prime dive sites with a memorable beachfront setting. A collection of thatch-roofed cottages is tucked into a lush garden setting, with many of the 40 rooms and suites offering direct ocean views. The resort's Dive Center is organized and well-appointed with storage and staging areas, rinse tanks, and a large cache of scuba tanks comprised primarily of aluminum 80s, as well as several 63 and 90 cu.ft. Tanks are available with air or 32% nitrox. There is also a large, climate-controlled camera room with spacious work centers and power outlets in both 220 and 110 volts that will accept standard US plugs. The resort also includes an upscale spa facility with four private therapy rooms that offer a wide range of therapeutic and relaxing services.
Book your next vacation stay at Atlantis Dumaguete online or send us an email at sales@caradonna.com.
This upscale boutique resort elevates both service and amenities to the luxury level, while also providing professional dive services. Bungalows tucked into a lushly landscaped setting are divided into spacious suites, family-friendly apartments and penthouses, all fitted with indulgences such as California-king beds, rain showers and flat screen entertainment suites. The property is also eco-friendly, featuring solar heated water and energy reduction air-conditioners. Amenities such as an award-winning spa and fine dining add to the diving experience, which remains a prime focus of the business. Guests enjoy up to five dives a day, organized in small groups of four or less, with a dedicated guide. Personalized services include onboard child care and youth snorkel programs, in-water tours with a marine biologist and complimentary nitrox for qualified divers. Atmosphere’s Dive Center offers a full range of PADI courses, photography classes and marine life presentations. In addition to boat diving, the resort offers unlimited shore diving and unique fluoro-diving experiences.
Book your next vacation stay at Atmosphere Resort & Spa online or send us an email at sales@caradonna.com.
Known as a resort built for divers by divers, Pura Vida delivers an intimate take on the resort experience and provides good value for money, with 31 spacious guest rooms in five attractive price categories. Bungalow-style accommodations are finished with an elegant simplicity that showcases the natural surroundings and makes use of the area's natural building materials. The beachfront restaurant emphasizes fresh, locally-sourced ingredients and healthful cuisines, and there is an on-site spa. Pura Vida’s Sea Explorers Dive Center is a PADI 5-star Career Development Center, served by a fleet of five dive boats. The shop maintains an extensive inventory of rental equipment, three compressors and tanks in sizes from 8 to 14 liters (about 60 to 104 cubic feet). Daily operations take in more than 30 dive sites located within a half hour of the resort, along with excursions to Apo Island and night dives and fluoro diving experiences.
Book your next vacation stay at Pura Vida Beach & Dive Resort online or send us an email at sales@caradonna.com.