The Best of Bonaire, Above and Below

With more than 80 dive sites to choose from, even the most ambitious aquanaut couldn't take in all of Bonaire's underwater riches in a week's time. But, save for those intrepid few who quit their day jobs to become divemasters or scuba bums, a week is all the time most of us can devote to a dive vacation.

The good news is that with a bit of planning, a week is plenty of time to take in a full range of Bonaire's premier dive sites. To help plan your excursions, we've come up with six days of diving, each of which showcases a different aspect of the island's underwater realm. And just in case you want to add some topside adventures into the mix, we also have some suggestions for those afternoon surface intervals.

A favorite aspect of diving in Bonaire is convenience. At most of the island's premier dive resorts, you can wade in right from the beach or step off a pier and be on the reef in a few fin strokes. With resorts occupying a two-mile stretch of coastline north and south of the town of Kralendijk, there's plenty of easy-access diving to enjoy at sites like La Machaca, Buddy's Reef, Calabas and Eighteen Palms. In general, the coral formations in this area begin at depths of 25 feet, less than 30 yards from shore. Reefs follow a steady slope down to depths beyond 100 feet, allowing divers to create multi-level profiles that extend no-stop bottom times. These same reefs are ideal for night dives, as there is no need to board a boat or rush dinner plans to meet a group schedule. An added treat of night dives is the frequent appearance of large tarpon, which will dart in and out of the beams of dive lights as they patrol the slopes.

One of Bonaire's other claims to fame is the abundance of shore diving sites that can be accessed with a rental pickup truck. At intervals all along the coastal road, yellow-painted rocks mark entry points for dive sites. Simply park, rig up and wade in. In addition to regular daily boat dives, some resorts include a rental pickup truck in their diving and accommodation packages and operate drive-through fill stations. One area that is definitely worth a road trip is the southwestern corner of the island, where EEG Boulevard runs just a stone's throw from the shore. Here, waters from the western shore mingle with currents flowing around the island's southern point, bringing an abundance of food that attracts fish life. Sites such as Red Slave, Vista Blue and Atlantis offer extensive hard coral formations, colorful soft corals and a good chance of seeing spotted eagle rays, turtles, large schools of scad, barracuda, grouper, and other large fish.

In addition to providing immediate access to house reefs and serving as base camps for farther-reaching shore diving excursions, Bonaire's full-service dive resorts offer daily boat trips. This not only provides easy access to sites all along the west coast, it also opens up more than 24 additional sites on the small, uninhabited island of Klein Bonaire. This low-lying, barren chunk of limestone sits less than a half-mile west of Bonaire. Klein is ringed by a reef line that begins as shallow as 15 feet and drops below 100. Diving takes place all around the island, and there is something for everyone. Shallow formations at sites like Rock Pile, Sharon's Serenity and Captain Don's Reef are ideal for both snorkelers and novice to intermediate divers. Mild currents nurture giant orange elephant ear sponges at Ebo's Reef, black corals and orange/purple tube sponges on the lower slopes of Nearest Point, and lush fields of soft coral at Munk's Haven. Sampler's rocky profile and ample overhangs make it a haven for moray eels, octopus and frogfish. Divers looking for more dramatic underwater topography can explore the sand chutes at Joanne's Sunchi, or hover on the sponge-encrusted wall at Carl's Hill.

While the southern end of Bonaire is low-lying, the northern half is hilly. Here, the coastline transitions from beach to low limestone cliffs, and reef lines move even closer to land. Some sites along the northwest coast can be reached by from shore, sometimes by stairs or a short path, or in more extreme cases, by leaping from a ledge. Two of the most famous dive sites in this area are Karpata and Thousand Steps. That keeping count will tally just 64 steps in the rock stairway leading to Thousand Steps—the name was likely assigned by a tired diver after ascending in full gear. The prime attractions here are the high profile formations of star coral, which provide a haven for fish life. Karpata is known for its stellar visibility, rich coral growth and abundant fish life. In short, about everything that makes a site worthy of accolades. Both of these famous locations and a number of less-publicized but equally enjoyable sites nearby are also visited by boat, as resorts schedule regular visits to the area. Among the prime sites that can only be reached by boat are Bloodlet and Rappel.

Bonaire is one of the few places in the Caribbean where a major shipwreck can be accessed from shore. The Hilma Hooker was seized by authorities when 12 tons of marijuana was discovered aboard. While under impound, the vessel rolled over and sank at anchor, coming to rest between the twin reef lines at the site known as Angel city. Today, this 235 foot freighter lies on its side in 100 feet of water, with cargo masts extending outward. The open and shadow-filled cargo holds are often patrolled by large tarpon, and the wheelhouse is open and safe for exploration. The Hilma Hooker can be reached with a short swim from shore, while dive boats tie up at attached mooring buoys that lead divers right to the wreck. The section of coast where this wreck lies is known as the double reefs because a second outside reef line runs parallel to shore, separated from the first drop by a sand valley. There are a number of sites in this area where divers can transit from inside to outside reefs on a single dive. The formations come close together at sites like Alice in Wonderland and Angel City. In addition to this site's namesake angelfish, it is often visited by spotted eagle rays.

A pair of Bonaire's man-made structures has received a lot of attention from divers over the years. Town Pier is located on the Kralendijk waterfront. In daylight, there's nothing particularly impressive about this L-shaped wharf, which extends outward on pilings to a depth of 35 feet. Return at night, however, and the beam of a dive light will catch the silver flash of tarpon as they dart between pilings covered in blazing orange cup corals. In years past, this famous night dive was open to all. Due to heightened port security, a submersion now requires the permission of the harbormaster and must be made as a guided dive. Fortunately, this is something that resort dive centers can often arrange. The island's other dive-able pier stretches more than 500 feet from shore on clusters of massive pilings. Overhead, a conveyor track is used to load freighters with bulk salt harvested from the nearby evaporation ponds. The pier is owned by the Cargill Company, which allows divers access at any time a ship is not loading. The pier can be accessed by boat or with a swim from shore, which brings divers past shallows where squid hunt shimmering schools of silversides. The pilings sport heavy growths of sponges and corals, which in turn shelter a menagerie of invertebrates. These structures also attract a wide variety of fish life and create unique backdrops for underwater photographers.

Avid divers have been known to pack in five submersions a day into a Bonaire trip. For these die-hards, any time spent above water is just a surface interval.  Others looking for a more balanced vacation experience can sample an enticing roster of topside activities and adventures that can be mixed with daily dives. One very popular afternoon excursion is a kayak tour through the mangrove lagoon at Lac Bay. These one or two-hour paddles wind through shaded channels and clear-water lagoons in one the best-preserved mangrove forests in the Caribbean. The hills and valleys of north-central Bonaire offer hiking trails and bike routes, and we can arrange a number of afternoon excursions that complement morning dive schedules. The steady trade winds that sweep over the island combine with the flat waters of Lac Bay to create a world-class windsurfing site. The pros come here to train, but beginners can also learn to harness the wind, as there are several companies that offer lessons, rental equipment and chase boat support. The same is true for the kiteboarding action that centers around a beach on the island's southwestern shore. This is an ideal place to discover the thrilling and sometimes high-flying sport of kite-powered board sports. And at the end of the day, there are a number of waterfront eateries and taverns where divers can take in spectacular sunsets while swapping tales of the day's adventures.

To book your next Bonaire Dive Vacation send us an email at sales@caradonna.com.